Steven Vogel

Writer. Musician. Critic. Fan.
www.blacklodges.com

cough/cool 1910

I’ve been picking up heaps of goodness these past weeks and here are a few glimpses of it. Before I get into this though I have to say that I wasn’t quite sure if I was going to post this though. I remember this point at a a talk I did nearly two years ago at the London College of Fashion about my book and Ben Wilson, who sat in the audience asked a really good question. With the democratization of knowledge through the internet/blogs people are readily giving access to knowledge/taste/inspiration which has taken decades to acquire. His question went something like: Do you sometimes have material that you yourself find too precious to readily give up to the public for free? At the time I was adamant that all knowledge should be free and democratized-if not I would be negating the existence of this blog surely. Now, I am not so sure anymore. Thanks to Google Analytics I can pretty much pin point exactly how many people and more interestingly WHO and WHERE FROM looks at this site. Without wanting to superficially stroke my own ego or that of any of the contributors, but a significant number of people at big corporations who dip into our counter culture and get “inspired / rip off “, regularly look at this site. That’s fine, in principle, if due was paid where it is due. 99.9% of the time this does not happen. As a matter of fact I have sat in enough “creative” meetings where visual mood boards appeared out of nowhere that were straight up jacked from various blogs. Difference being, that this site nor any other I know personally, get credit / money for their passion. I know, it is our own choice to do these things and luckily I have day jobs that put food on my table, but if it wasn’t for them, all this wouldn’t be possible. You catch my drift. I am still unsure as to how I feel about all this and what consequences this train of thought will have to black lodges but as of now I am already re-designing the concept behind the site. How and when it will change remains to be seen. Anyway, this book I bought in Paris last week sparked that train of thought.

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It is actually quite a large book and to be honest, it is probably one of the finest books I have picked up in a long time. Layout, editing and content are beyond superb. It chronicles, quite literally, the birth of cool / counter culture from 1910 to the end of the 50s through the product of Harley Davidson. Now, as a gear head myself Harley’s are the ultimate in cool, there is no need to deny it. What I didn’t know is that HD started producing Product / Merchandise for people to buy into the brand in 1912. Think about that, that is nearly a hundred years ago. That is 50 years before HD’s were made “popular” in modern media, which totally blows me away. What blew me away even more going through this book is that the product from the 1910s-1940s is absolutely amazing and is being copied ( literally, not just aesthetically ) right now by legions of modern menswear brands. Form follows Function with enough attention to detail and, yes, unintentional coolness. Anyway, here are a few glimpses from the book. Do yourself a favour. Buy this. Seriously.

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I also bought this. streetwear who/what?

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To answer the question of the week, I shoot everything with my G9. It is a great camera to use, once you have figured it out. I got the G7 because Fats told me so, I then went ahead and poured a whole bottle of red wine of said G7 which led me to buy the G9. I can only recommend it. In a way though the G9 is like buying a Mac though, every wannabe creative ( like me ) has one and doesn’t know how to use it. The end of creativity as we know it.



7 comments for “cough/cool 1910”

  1. Ian Paley

    Its a quandary for sure. I feel the same, I suppose the main point of difference between the posters and the corporate viewers is the passion and the excitement. This is plainly what is missing around the oval tables. Something money can’t buy, taste, execution, the long tail.

    Research used to be about getting out there, visiting a new place, discovering something new, the excitement when you do allows us to push it into our work and move things along. Too much research relies on a few clicks. The lazy ones find there world expanding, the active contracting. I think for this site we have to post what we feel comfortable with, but sharing excitement is infectious and to me it seams like this is the soul of the Lodge. Whilst bits are cribbed and borrowed, hopefully in the future the community will develop a more rounded sense of responsibility. Fingers crossed for a recession clear out of the culprits.

  2. Steven Vogel

    That is actually another point that I find interesting and worth exploring- how for a lot of people their inspiration horizion has expanded but for others ( and maybe because of it ) it has gotten smaller.
    Excitment is infectious, possibly one of the downfalls of this site and others like it. Like I said though, changes are due.

  3. Nick Schonberger

    Much agreed. While access should yield broader sweeps of inspiration, it has seemingly narrowed them. Perhaps an issue of limited imagination more than anything.

    On a lighter note, a trip to Milwaukee is in order. I am dying to see the Harley Museum. Plus, the city is quite fun really. Thanks for showcasing that book.

  4. Gregg

    Personally, I think it’s a good thing in the long run, even though right now it seems kind of shitty. Anytime I’ve learned a new skill, I basically started by emulating those who were good at it. Eventually those people will be able to manifest their own creativity.

    I’m not saying that everyone that cops another person’s style will eventually spread their wings and become a nascent artist, nor am I saying that everyone who borrows ideas for profit will pilfer the well without relent or understanding.

    Though it’s harder than just sitting back and making things, artists can reap huge rewards from managing the business aspect of their creativity, because they are in possession of something a financially oriented person is less likely to utilize.

    Look at the Wu-Tang. They are one of my hugest inspirations in how they took control of their business and made lives for themselves. The RZA seems to be the most business minded of the Clan, but he is also one of the most creative producers to emerge in the past twenty years. To wit, they approached the record industry in a creative way that enabled all of the artists to maintain leverage when scoring their solo record deals.

    I have to give credit, a lot of ad agencies were started by creative people who were seeking dominion over their everyday life. Personally speaking, I hate looking at advertisements. I’d like to see some creative people give some more than clever taglines and well constructed product imagery, but that’s me being completely selfish. Until then, I will have my Wu-Tang records, and they can all eat a dick.

  5. stephen

    the www is not regulated, knowledge or the imparting of knowledge, passions and genuine love for things that make you, me , him, her tick and smile should not be hidden / denied a voice , they should be celebrated, and you know what everything is a reference to a reference to a reference anyway … so hey … look at this way … if something is copied/ripped yet done well with consideration passion knowledge of the original well i say we complement, if it is done badly with no particular interest it stinks a country mile away of bullshit and might as well be wearing a lepers bell …

    when a blind black guy sat with two strings on his guitar and unintentionally THE most simple yet complex (thus oxymoronic tuning) singing songs about the plight he and his kin were in, bet you 10 of the most corrupt bucks ya got in ya sky rocket that he had no idea that all of the great rock riffs and blues orientated guitar solos would pay homage to him in the future … without paying a dime … now does he care ? I doubt it as he was telling a factual story … not fiction and he wasnt thinking too hard … he just played …

    so hey … just write, talk, scream whatever, fuck the idle frauds and those devoid of passion sat with a cheque book … say what you think or feel or simply dont …

    x

  6. justin

    Rin Tanaka rules. Also check out one of my favs, ‘40 Summers Ago’. A great book about Steve Mcqueen and the USA team at the ISDT motorcycle race in the 60s (which still kind of exists now!).

    Books (and other media) like this inspire all sorts of folk - ‘A Lazy Education’? Some creatives have deep rooted passions for these subjects and infuse it in their own art and design ‘spheres of influence’ for personal gain and that’s all good too but sometimes those passions may get watered down by other viewers, copied badly by some and styles get bitten. That’s the nature of the beast if you share goodness but rarely gives kudos to those who share their knowledge and passions - i say be careful and self regulate…. it doesn’t hurt to hold a little back surely?

    Whether or not the endless trawling of ‘cool’ blogs go on to contribute in a positive manner rather than going out there and ‘feeling’ it for yourselves is another question. I’m guessing that most products from ‘web research’ would be inferior, weaker or flawed in some way and those who really know their shit, know their shit! Stick to what you’re good at…

  7. Rusto

    THE VICIOUS CYCLE…

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